Mitch Tonks, a chef, and restaurateur who debuted his Rockfish line of tinned seafood at the beginning of January agree that canned fish is an excellent product. “We offer the obligatory sardines and mackerel, as well as mussels, cuttlefish, and squid ink… I am a fan of canned fish. He is also not alone.
José Pizarro is never without sardines: “Get sardinillas, the small ones – they’re the best.” Together with hard-boiled eggs and capers, the chef and restaurateur use them to fill empanadas. “I cannot get enough of these baked goods. My mother taught me this recipe, though she uses canned tuna.”
Tonks also uses sardines in a Reuben-style sandwich: “Mix creme fraiche, English mustard, and a dash of Worcestershire sauce; spread it on rye bread [buttered on the outside]; add sardines; add black pepper, red onion, sliced dill pickle, capers, sauerkraut, and Swiss cheese.” Top with another slice of buttered rye bread and fry until golden brown.
Tonks also suggests a spicy som tam: “Shred carrots, courgettes, and/or green papaya, slice red onion, and halve cherry tomatoes, then combine them in a bowl with thinly sliced fresh hot chili. Create a dressing by combining a clove of crushed garlic, palm sugar, fish sauce, and lime juice, then toss with coriander and mint. “Fry some canned sardines and sprinkle them on top as a garnish.”
If Ben has canned tuna on hand, Tonks suggests mixing it with crispy potatoes spiced with ‘nduja, while canned mackerel signals shawarma: “Shred cabbage, red onion, and green chili, then grate garlic into yogurt and mix.” Spread this on flatbread along with some hummus, za’atar, lemon juice, and mackerel, roll it up, and the dish is complete.
Anchovies are also essential,” says chef Angus Cowen, who co-founded the East London Canning Co with his partner Charlotte Dawe during the lockdown.
They possess the umami flavor that cannot be found anywhere else. While anchovies have numerous uses, it is difficult to serve them better than on toast with as much butter as possible. Alternately, “sweat them with minced rosemary and garlic to use as a base with chicken stock for a braise, whether lamb shoulder or rabbit.”
Cowen is also an avid fan of canned mussels: “We cook and snack on them throughout the year.” The orzo dish he prepares by rendering smoked bacon, sweating leeks, garlic, and fennel seeds with fennel seeds until soft is a huge hit with his family, particularly his children.
The mussels are added at the very end, along with a splash of cider, cooked pasta, and butter. If you have upscale mussels, don’t forget to add some of their liquor as well. Alternatively, use them as a topping for toast. Tonks prepares his mussels with red onions, capers, shredded little gem, olive oil, and vinegar. Eat sourdough bread and spread joy.
