Few foods in the world are as divisive as Spam, a small can of processed pork that inspires either adoration or abhorrence.
As a member of the Asian diaspora, this very American product tastes like home to me. The history of Spam in Asian communities is a tale of resourcefulness and tenacity shared by all. It is often difficult to explain to people, as they recoil in disgust, that Spam is not only delicious but also viewed very differently in the countries of our parents.
Millions of Asians and Pacific Islanders around the world share my affection for the small, rectangular slab of canned pork. The inclusion of Spam in the regional cuisines of the Philippines, South Korea, Japan, and Hong Kong may appear inconsistent with local cooking styles, ingredients, and techniques. How did this American canned meat become so popular in so many different cuisines?
Spam with ramen, Spam with rice, and Spam with eggs. Spam has a long history as a convenience food, a food ration, a luxury item, and a colonial relic. Hormel Foods invented it in 1937 as a way to profit from surplus pork shoulder and to fill a market need for small portions of high-quality deli meat with a long shelf life.
At the time, other companies were using waste products and offcuts such as pork noses to make their deli meat, so Spam’s comparative high quality and low price made it a hit with Great Depression-era families. Its high protein content and long shelf life made it an ideal military ration. As a wartime necessity, Spam began its journey around the world in this manner. By the end of the second world war, the United States government had purchased approximately 68,000 metric tonnes of it to feed its army and provide assistance to its allies.
After World War II, Spam’s popularity in Europe declined, while it remained immensely popular in the Asia-Pacific region. In the Philippines, Spam was an expensive item sold in retail stores on US army bases, with one tin frequently costing nearly the daily wage of an average worker. Its price and obvious “American-ness” contributed significantly to its popularity; having Spam or other imported canned goods in your pantry became a sign of wealth.
In Hong Kong, where agricultural land (and therefore meat) was scarce and manufacturing was booming, cafes or cha chaan tengs created Cantonese interpretations of western cuisine for factory workers by combining Chinese cooking styles with imported foods such as Spam, butter, and cheese.
During World War II, restrictions on Japanese-American off-shore fishing deprived Hawaiians of a significant portion of their diet. In response, the US military introduced Spam as an alternative source of protein. It is now an integral part of Hawaii’s cuisine.
The Korean War pushed Spam eastward. US soldiers bartered Spam for information from starving locals suffering from wartime food shortages. In addition to being smuggled out of army bases along with sausages, baked beans, and other canned goods, it was also smuggled out of the country. This period of scarcity spawned the now-iconic budae jjigae or “army base stew,” the ideal combination of Korean cuisine and American ingredients.
I grew up in Singapore, eating Spam as part of the “economy/curry rice” option, with noodles or fried rice, and at home, where my mother prepared it as a treat. When simply fried in a pan, Spam is at its tastiest: salty, soft in the center, and golden-brown on the edges. This is the ideal textural contrast. When diced and stir-fried with rice or eggs, it imparts porky flavor bursts. It becomes extremely tender and absorbs the broth’s flavor when simmered, making it an ideal component for a decadent, spicy stew.
Spam is a vestige of American colonialism, but it is undeniably Asian as well. It is a shining example of culinary innovation born of adversity, and it represents a complex history spanning multiple cultures. It is also incredibly delicious.
A plant-based alternative I am aware that promoting the consumption of mass-produced meat products raises serious ethical and environmental concerns, but Asia’s fondness for Spam has also given rise to OmniPork, a brilliant plant-based luncheon meat product. It is offered as a plant-based “Spam” in McDonald’s restaurants in Hong Kong, Macau, and Australia. It appears and cooks identically to Spam, so feel free to substitute it in my favorite Spam recipes.
Army base chowder (budae jjigae)
Budae jjigae is the ideal combination of traditional Korean flavors with western ingredients. Jjigae is typically served family-style over a portable stove, but they can also be prepared on the stovetop and brought to the table. This is an excellent dish for sharing with a group.
This recipe calls for gochujang and gochugaru, Korean red pepper paste, and flakes, respectively. Both are available at well-stocked supermarkets and Asian markets.
Prep 10 min
Cook 15 min
Servs 4 to 6
For the stew, 75g of kimchi and half a can (170g) Spam, sliced four cocktail frankfurters or similar, sliced 200g soft tofu, sliced two spring onions, cut into 3-centimeter lengths.
2 king oyster mushrooms, cut in half lengthwise 12 bunch enoki mushrooms, trimmed 500ml hot stock, plus additional liquid to cover
1 slice cheese American
1 envelope of instant noodles
12 onion brown, sliced 100g rice cakes
1 tablespoon of baked beans (optional)
For the condiment
3 teaspoons gochugaru 2 teaspoons gochujang 6 minced garlic cloves 2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon soju or comparable rice wine
In a small bowl, combine the sauce’s ingredients and set aside.
In a wide, shallow saucepan, layer the ingredients, beginning with the sliced brown onion, mushrooms, kimchi, and sauce. Place the spam, sausages, baked beans, and tofu on top, then pour the stock on top and bring to a boil over medium heat while covered. Allow for four to five minutes of boiling.
Reduce the heat to a simmer and add the unflavored rice cakes and instant noodles. Remove the cover and continue to cook. Add cheese on top and serve in individual bowls. As the stew continues to cook down, add more stock to thin it.
Hong Kong-style Ham and macaroni and eggs soup.
In addition to thick french toast, scrambled eggs in pineapple buns, and dim sum, Hong Kong’s breakfast menu features macaroni soup and Spam. It is child-friendly and comforting, as well as quick and simple to prepare.
Prep 10 min
Cook 10 minutes for 2
100g elbow macaroni
1 cm of peeled and sliced ginger
750ml chicken stock
12 can (170g) sliced Spam
1 onion bulb, sliced
1.25 grams soy sauce
1 spoonful of oyster sauce
2 eggs
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 bunch split lengthwise and blanched baby bok choy
Sesame oil, to serve
In a medium saucepan, heat one tablespoon of vegetable oil and stir-fry the sliced ginger until fragrant and golden brown (one to two minutes). Bring to a boil the chicken stock, soy sauce, and oyster sauce. Add the macaroni and cook according to the instructions on the package for seven to eight minutes.
While the macaroni is cooking, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a frying pan and cook the Spam on both sides until golden brown. Remove the Spam from the pan and set it aside before adding the eggs.
To assemble, divide the macaroni and soup between two bowls and top with Spam, bok choy, an egg, and sliced green onions. Pour additional soup on top, sprinkle with sesame oil, and serve.
Fritters of Spam, potatoes, and green chilies.
These potato fritters are extremely enticing. I can consume five or six in one sitting without feeling guilty. Use a versatile potato, such as a desire or Dutch cream, for this dish.
Prep 20 min
Cook 20 min
Makes 14 fritters
1kg desired potatoes, peeled
1 can Spam
1 egg, beaten 1/2 bunch chopped parsley
3 spring onions, green portion only, chopped finely 3 long green chilies, deseeded and chopped finely
White pepper and salt to taste Vegetable oil for frying
Cut the potatoes into 3 to 4-centimeter-sized pieces and boil them in boiling water until tender.
Strain and steam dry, then mash and permit to briefly cool. Add the Spam and thoroughly mash it before incorporating the egg, spring onion, parsley, and green chili. season to taste with salt and white pepper.
In a heavy-bottomed or nonstick skillet, heat enough oil to a depth of 3 centimeters.
Form the mixture into 5cm-diameter patties and place them gently into the hot oil. Fry for four to five minutes, without turning, until golden brown and crisp. Serve without delay.
Spam ‘sisig’
Sisig is a Filipino dish composed of grilled, chopped pork (typically pig’s head and belly) and chicken livers marinated in a bright, acidic sauce.
Traditional sisig consists of papaya, green mango, fish, and other meats, but the modern version was created by Filipinos who cleverly repurposed excess pork from the US airbase at Clark, Pampanga. Traditional sisig requires multiple cooking steps, but this recipe only requires one. The flavorful dressing complements the fatty, crispy meat perfectly. If you have one, serve on a sizzling hotplate with ample steamed rice.
Prep 10 min
Cook 15 minutes Serves four
2 cans (680g) Spam, cut into 2cm dice
12 red onion, diced 2 birds-eye peppers, sliced 1 green pepper, sliced
1 gram of fish sauce
1 teaspoon of calamansi lime juice. Calamansi limes are sometimes available online and in specialty grocery stores; if you can’t find them, you can substitute regular lime juice.
1 gram of white vinegar
1 tbsp vegetable oil
Black pepper
1 egg yolk, optional
In a frying pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add the Spam and cook it over medium heat until it is golden and crispy.
Transfer the crispy Spam to a bowl and combine with the diced onion, chili, fish sauce, lime juice, and vinegar. Season to taste with freshly ground black pepper. Add a small amount of butter to a sizzling plate or pan and serve the sisig directly on the plate.
