- Tourist hotspot amidst security
- Esmeraldas transforms under Buitron
- Residents relish newfound peace
Javier Buitron, along with the military and police, has been credited with restoring order to one of the most dangerous capitals in the world.
A mile-long strip in the port city of Esmeraldas, Ecuador, is alive with laughter and Latin rhythms.
The main road along the seafront, flanked on one side by the azure waters and pristine white sands of the Pacific Ocean and on the other by bustling bars and restaurants, is in the midst of summer, funfair season, and festival time.
At the finest restaurants, one must queue for a table, albeit while sipping an ice-cold cocktail, as the hotels are around 70% full.
This could be any popular tourist destination, like Spain, Rio de Janeiro, the Caribbean, or Florida. I consider myself fortunate to have visited each of them.
Yet, there is a difference here.
A person crossing the road in search of an ice cream, for example, must take care not to obstruct a patrol of body-armoured marines wearing balaclavas and maintaining a constant presence; the marines patrol intermittently on foot and in vehicles.
Although it looks and feels normal, it is not.
Ecuador and the city of Esmeraldas are embroiled in a conflict with drug cartels; although the security forces are currently on the offensive, the conflict is far from over.
A few weeks ago, Esmeraldas was a no-go area; in fact, very few foreigners and international correspondents have yet visited this coastal city.
At that time, the streets and beaches were deserted, and hotel occupancy was close to zero.
While restaurants closed, bars opened to a limited number of regular customers.
Insurrection and violence spread throughout Ecuador
Drug gangs and their Mexican cartel leaders threatened insurrection, murdered people, and detonated car bombs in response to the president of Ecuador launching a nationwide assault on their business interests and complete disregard for the rule of law and democracy.
The crackdown was initiated by Daniel Noboa, the 36-year-old president of Ecuador, following the infamous drug gangster Adolfo “Fito” Macias’s escape from a Guayaquil prison.
Following his escape, violence and unrest erupted across the nation, and Esmeraldas quickly emerged as a significant threat. At the time, its homicide rate soared, making it one of the most dangerous cities in the world.
“They no longer feel fear; they are free”
President Noboa needed help in resolving the situation. He made the call one morning.
The person who answered was a retired Esmeraldas police superintendent, currently living in the United States.
The president said he needed help. After nodding in agreement, the man hung up the phone, informed his wife, and boarded the next flight back to Ecuador.
I met Javier Buitron by the water’s edge in Esmeraldas, with his bodyguards always close by.
He is now the administrator of Esmeraldas.
“People were staying in their homes for fear of being murdered,” he told me.
“Now, I am happy because they are no longer afraid; they are free. The people are at ease and now enjoying this place—in the bars, on the streets, and on the beach.”
Authority reclaims control
In 26 days, Mr. Buitron, the military, and police turned the situation around.
Now, the streets are under the control of the authorities. Additionally, control has been re-established over the local prison, and personnel such as officers and soldiers are now allowed into previously inaccessible neighbourhoods, including one where the gangs had allied with the Sinaloa and Jalisco New Generation cartels from Mexico.
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In the past, Mr Buitron said, bodies were hanging from bridges in that part of Esmeraldas for several ominous weeks. This was a sign of the presence of the most powerful cartels in Mexico in these neighbourhoods.
Residents rejoice in improvements
During my visit, residents told me it had been a nightmare and that they were pleased things were improving.
A man named Leonardo spoke to me from his front door, saying, “I feel very grateful personally because before, at this time of day, it was impossible to be outside because bullets would rain down from the opposite side and from side to side. But now, as you can see, we are at peace and in tranquillity.”
His neighbour Andrea agreed: “Everything has changed a lot for the better,” she said. “You can now move around, and unlike before, you no longer hear gunfire; that has changed a lot.”
