On a pebbly beach, donning a striped jacket and repeatedly entering and exiting the frigid sea. I grew up on the Mediterranean shore, eating chopped salad and swimming in the water because, well, it’s the Mediterranean. These days, I have the best of both worlds: I can admire my children as they leap into and out of the icy ocean, while I mostly focus on the fish-chips-ice-cream-sundowner aspect of the situation.
Submarined Marmite fish with Marie rose sauce
This sandwich is inspired by both the Mexican Baja fish taco and the New Orleans po’ boy, but with the addition of Marmite and Marie rose sauce, which are uniquely British.
Prep 10 min
 Cook 30 min
 Makes 4
300g hake fillet, or pollock or sustainable cod, skinned
 Salt and black pepper
 350ml vegetable oil
 4 soft white hotdog buns, or torpedo rolls
For the cabbage salad
 100g white cabbage, thinly shredded, ideally with a mandoline
 1 red chili, stem discarded, the rest cut into thin rounds, seeds and all
For the Marie rose sauce
 50g tomato ketchup
 50g mayonnaise
 20g English mustard
 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
 1 tsp Tabasco
 2 tsp brandy or vodka
 10g dill leaves, roughly chopped
 50g gherkins, finely chopped, plus 1 tsp gherkin brine for the cabbage salad
For the batter
 1 tbsp Marmite
 150ml sparkling water
 1 tbsp brandy or vodka
 175g plain flour
 100g coarse polenta
 1 tsp baking powder
Refrigerate the fish for 20 minutes after sprinkling it with a quarter teaspoon of salt and placing it on a baking sheet.
In the meantime, combine the cabbage and chili in a medium bowl with a pinch of salt and the gherkin brine. Mix the ingredients with your hands to soften the cabbage, then set it aside.
Next, prepare a sauce. Set aside the first six ingredients together with half of the dill and all of the gherkins in a medium bowl.
Next, the batter. Stir the Marmite and sparkling water in a large bowl, then add the brandy, 125g flour, 50g polenta, and all of the baking powder, and whisk until the mixture has a porridge-like consistency. In a second large bowl, combine the 50 grams of remaining flour and polenta.
Remove the fish from the refrigerator, pat it dry using paper towels, and then slice it into 2cm-thick slices.
Heat the oil in a big saucepan over medium-high heat until it reaches 170C. (or when a drop of batter sizzles immediately when dropped in). Coat the fish with the dry flour and polenta mixture, then place half of the fish into the wet batter and turn to evenly coat. Carefully place each fish piece in the hot oil and fry for three minutes, flipping once halfway through. Transfer the fish to a tray lined with paper towels to drain, then pierce each piece with a knife to allow steam to escape; this will help the fish retain its crispness. Continue with the remainder of the fish and batter.
To serve, slit each bun along its length, taking care not to sever it completely. Spread the inside liberally with the sauce and top with fried fish. Stir the remaining dill into the cabbage salad, then serve with more dill on top.
Strawberry and mascarpone sundae
It is prepared without an ice-cream machine, which is one of its many delights. All the work is completed in a food processor (as well as in the freezer and with time), making homemade ice cream easy for anybody to prepare. Both ice creams, as well as the sauce and banana crumb, will remain fresh for a month. As with any ice cream recipe, use the highest-quality eggs possible.
Prep 20 min
Cook 70 min
Freeze 24 hr
Serves 8-10
For the mascarpone ice-cream
4 eggs
125g caster sugar
225g single cream
225g mascarpone
25ml brandy or rum
60ml honey
For the strawberry ice-cream
150g caster sugar
450ml double cream
450g strawberries, hulled and halved
1 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp red wine vinegar
For the strawberry sauce
200g strawberries, hulled and halved
100g caster sugar
50ml red wine vinegar
For the banana chips
100g sweet banana chips
25g unsalted butter, melted
â…› tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp caster sugar
For the mascarpone ice cream, place the eggs and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whisk on medium speed for five minutes, or until doubled in volume, pale, and fluffy. In the meantime, mix the cream, mascarpone, brandy, and honey by hand in a large bowl for one minute, until slightly mousse-like. Reduce the mixer speed to its lowest level, then fold the cream mixture in gently. Pour into a sealed container and freeze overnight.
The strawberry ice cream is next. In a medium saucepan, combine sugar and 200ml cream. Stir well, then place over medium-high heat and simmer for four minutes, stirring regularly, until the sugar melts and steam appears. In the meantime, place the remaining ingredients for the strawberry ice cream, including the remaining 250ml of double cream, in a blender. Pour the hot cream mixture into the blender, and allow to cool for five minutes. Blend for one minute until extremely smooth, then pour into an airtight container and freeze overnight.
Place all of the strawberry sauce ingredients in a medium saucepan, and mash the strawberries with the back of a fork to break them up. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat to a simmer for five minutes, or until the liquid is somewhat reduced and syrupy.
Place a clean tea towel inside a small colander placed over a small dish. Pour the strawberry mixture into the center of the towel, tie two of the corners together, and then use a can to gently press the mixture down. Allow to cool, then refrigerate overnight.
The oven should be heated to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 Pulse the banana chips in a food processor until they resemble a coarse crumble. Transfer to a large bowl and stir with the melted butter, cinnamon, sugar, and a half teaspoon of salt. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and equally distribute the banana chip mixture on top. Bake for 16 to 18 minutes, or until a deep golden brown, then remove, let cool, and place in an airtight container.
Once the mascarpone ice cream has solidified, remove it from its container, place it on a board, and cut it into 5-centimeter cubes. Put the ingredients in a food processor and process for three to four minutes, or until the mixture has melted somewhat and the consistency of peanut butter. Return to the original container, cover, and freeze once more. Repeat the procedure with the strawberry ice cream. Six to eight hours later, both ice creams will be ready.
To complete the strawberry sauce, discard the pulp and filter the liquid into a small container. To serve, scoop one ball of each ice cream into small cups or tumblers, drizzle with sauce, and generously sprinkle with crushed banana chips.
White sangria with elderflower, lemongrass and kiwi
This is a handy and non-messy way to enhance wine or champagne glasses on the beach. Simply pour the syrup into a flask or old jam jar and bring it along, ready to be mixed with your preferred wine.
Prep 5 min
Cook 5 min
Cool 40 min
Makes 4
2 lemongrass stalks, bashed and thinly sliced
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 lemon – zested to get 6 fine strips of peel, the fruit cut into thin rounds
100ml elderflower cordial
2 tbsp caster sugar
750ml dry white wine (ie, one standard bottle), such as albariño or sauvignon blanc
3 tbsp Cointreau (or other fruity liqueur such as Grand Marnier)
1 kiwi fruit, cut into thin rounds, skin and all
In a small saucepan, combine the lemongrass, peppercorns, lemon peel, cordial, sugar, and 100ml of wine using a fork. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then remove from heat and allow to steep and cool fully for around 40 minutes.
Pour the syrup through a sieve with a fine mesh into a jar or flask with a lid. Add Cointreau, then seal. Either bag the syrup and take it to the beach to blend with more wine, or consume it immediately by following the instructions below.
Pour the syrup and remaining 650ml of wine into a large glass jug. Add the lemon and kiwi rounds.
