It has been a week of dazzling sunshine, with bees on tufts of thyme emerging from the gaps in the stone paving, and of alfresco meals, with our olive-oily fingers tearing at thick sheets of focaccia as they are handed around the table.
The focaccia contained rosemary and green olives that were finely diced. The entire loaf smelt of intense summer, and we ate it with roasted peppers and sun-glistening anchovies marinated in silver. I cooked this loaf the same day the dough was made, and it rose well and had a light texture, but (if you have the time) it’s best to make the dough the day before and let it rise in the refrigerator overnight. The long rise appears to improve the flavor of the finished bread.
The herbs are added at the final stage, before the dough’s second rising. These herbs can withstand the heat of the oven: thyme, rosemary, and, if you cultivate it yourself, summer savory. Focaccia will travel easily to a picnic or lunchbox, but it also makes a unique sandwich when sliced horizontally to produce two broad sheets of bread, then topped with roasted and skinned peppers, basil leaves, rocket, and if desired, thinly sliced salami.
As the oven was already on, I created a sandwich filling of roasted aubergine with garlic and finely chopped preserved lemon, the oil from the roasting pan soaking into the bread. The next day, we ate it as a side dish because I overcooked it. If you have the opportunity, I recommend keeping the packed sandwiches under a weighted cutting board to encourage the filling to enter the holey crumb of the bread and for the two components — the bread and its delectable filling — to become one.
Olive and rosemary focaccia
If you have any sourdough starter on hand, add a couple of tablespoons along with the olive oil. Wrapped in aluminum foil or plastic wrap, the bread will remain fresh for one day, after which it can be sliced horizontally, toasted, and topped with sliced tomatoes and basil oil. Serving 4.
warm water 400ml
easy-bake dried yeast 2 tsp
sea salt 1 tsp
caster sugar 1 tsp
strong white bread flour 500g
olive oil 6 tbsp, plus a little extra
green or lemon-marinated olives 125g, stoned
rosemary leaves 1 tbsp
sea salt flakes to finish
You will also need a 34 cm x 24 cm baking dish with high sides.
Add the yeast, salt, and sugar to a large mixing basin containing the water. Incorporate the flour by hand or with a wooden spatula. Mix 2 tablespoons of olive oil into the dough in a loose manner. Refrigerate the bowl covered with a towel overnight. (The dough must rest for eight hours.)
The following day, after the dough has risen considerably (but not as much as if you had proved it in a warm location), half the olives and chop the rosemary leaves, then combine them with another 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and the dough. The baking pan is lightly oiled, then the dough is pressed into the pan. Push the dough out to fill the tin with your fist, gently pushing it almost into the corners — it will expand during the second proving — then cover the tin with a towel and set it in a warm location for at least an hour, and up to two, until it has doubled in size.
Set the oven temperature to 220C/gas mark 8 When the oven is ready, press many hollows into the dough with a finger dusted with flour, then sprinkle the surface lightly with sea salt flakes and bake for 30 minutes, or until golden. Remove from the oven, pour the remaining oil over the surface, and then use a palette knife to remove it from the tin.
Roast aubergine and preserved lemon sandwiches
A succulent filling for sandwiches and a tasty accompaniment for grilled lamb cutlets. Once cooked and seasoned, aubergines can be refrigerated for several days when covered. Before removing the aubergines from the heat, it is vital to verify that they are fully cooked. With olive oil, the flesh should be completely soft and almost translucent when pried apart with a spoon. Serving 4
aubergines 3 medium to large (about 800g)
olive oil 4 tbsp
garlic 3 cloves
preserved lemon 1, small
basil leaves 12
focaccia 1, see previous page
rocket 2 handfuls
Cut the aubergines in half lengthwise, position them with the cut side up, and then score a crisscross pattern into the flesh. Be cautious not to cut through the skin.
In a shallow pan, heat 4 tablespoons of oil over moderate heat. Add the aubergines, scored side down, and nestle the unpeeled garlic cloves around them. Fry the aubergines for 4-5 minutes, or until the sliced sides begin to turn a pale golden hue. This task may require two pans or a relay. Using a palette knife, flip the aubergines, and then add 100 ml of water to the pan. (Keep a lid on hand to prevent sputtering.)
Cover with a lid, reduce the heat, and continue cooking for an additional 10 minutes, or until the flesh of the eggplant is soft and smooth. Check that it is thoroughly cooked by separating the flesh with a spoon.
Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Remove the garlic cloves from the pan, remove the flesh from the skins, and place it in a bowl. With a spoon or fork, grind the cloves into a paste. Using a tablespoon, remove the aubergine’s flesh from its skin and place it in the bowl of garlic. Pour in any pan juices – there won’t be much – and mash together with a fork.
Remove and discard the flesh from the preserved lemon before finely chopping the peel. Add to the eggplant. Shred the basil leaves and add them to the mixture. An appreciation for seasoning. You may require some black pepper.
Using a long, sharp bread knife, cut the loaf of bread in half vertically to create two rectangles; next, cut each rectangle in half horizontally. Remove the top halves of each, then cover the bottom halves with eggplant purée and rocket leaves. Place the upper sections on top and apply light pressure. Allow a half hour for the bread to absorb the juices, then cut into pieces at the table.
