The Paris Privé exhibition by Giorgio Armani was based on the fundamentals of classic cocktail attire. This month, the 88-year-old design veteran exhibited crystals, velvet, lamé, sequins, and sparkling statement earrings.
The color palette switched from silver and black to pinks and lavender, dominated by Armani’s signature midnight blue.
With almost ninety pieces, the majority of the collection felt familiar, having been part of Armani’s wheelhouse since the 1980s. The first four designs included pants, which have become a characteristic of the designer when it comes to eveningwear.
Evening jackets featured a variety of shapes, ranging from a boxy sequined design to a longline jacquard version with geometric embellishments. There were also traditional gowns that would appeal to women with a packed social calendar and sufficient funds to purchase a new dress. See a strapless black velvet dress with a pink stripe down the bodice and a mid-length midnight blue silk organza dress with crystal embroidery.
Some experimental moments felt more contemporary. A long skirt with fabric knotted around the waist, almost as if it were a jumper, was a fascinating accent to certain outfits that had voluminous shapes created by large fabric flounces.
Small bags, a current fashion trend, were also present, as were the equally popular transparent resin bags. Long velvet gowns and dresses with voluminous skirts made of soft tulle or silk seemed like an obvious choice for upcoming award events.
This is the natural habitat of Armani Privé, the label of choice for red carpet appearances by actors. Ruth Negga wore a custom-made black gown to the Tony Awards in June, as did Cate Blanchett, a longtime company ambassador, at the Academy Awards in February.
The brand, which joined the Paris couture schedule in 2005, is now so well-known that archive pieces are in high demand. In June, for the premiere of Thor, Tessa Thompson wore a gown with cutouts that debuted in 2011 on the runway.
Armani, who has overseen the rise and fall of numerous administrations and has remained the head of his empire, received a standing ovation following this performance. Initially focusing on workwear, he has since been clothing celebrities for more than three decades on the red carpet. Vanity Fair referred to him as “the originator of red carpet power dressing” in 2019.
Jodie Foster was one of the first major celebrities to wear his clothing, switching from a problematic prom dress design in 1989 to a sophisticated trouser suit, similar to those featured in this presentation, in 1991.
